Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme DOCG Collis Breclemae 2004

The biggest (some might say the only) problem with top-drawer Nebbiolo wines is that you invariably need the patience of a saint to truly savour and enjoy them at something approaching their best. For the best crus, and this one from Antichi Vigneti di Canalupo from the Ghemme DOCG in Piedmont is certainly an excellent example, it can take over 10 years for the intensity and boldness of this grape to be tamed, allowing the incredible depth and complexity to shine through.

With all of the above in-mind, we were delighted to discover that this wine's UK agent was bringing in some winery aged 2004 - an excellent vintage in Piedmont. We were even more delighted to taste it at their showcase of Alto-Piemonte wines recently, it's truly delicious and absolutely on-song at the moment. This wine is a prime example of why Cantalupo are often heralded as Ghemme's leading winery.

Expect all the classic Nebbiolo descriptors: crushed violets on the nose, a balance of red and dark berry fruit on the palate, excellent structure and acidity, and a lengthy, complex finish. With considerable time in bottle, it is surprising how much of these primary notes remain, balanced now with wonderful savoury notes (leather, forest floor, a hint of gaminess) and a greater integration of the wine as a whole.

My personal notes from the tasting: "Nose is intensely complex. Palate is soft - rounded with velvety tannins. Creamy leather and hints of vanilla. Cola notes with supple spice and herbaceous notes."

From the supplier: A selection of the more mature Nebbiolo grapes are hand harvested from the Breclemae vineyard in the second half of October. The grapes are destemmed and lightly pressed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel at 28-30°C, from the second day of processing two punch downs a day are carried out in order to favour the extraction of the anthocyanins and the polymerised tannins from the skins. The wine aged is 42 months in Slavonian oak (12/15/30 hl).